Spanish
Bullfighting
-Brutal and Beastly
We had dithered a lot before actually deciding to go to a bullfight in Madrid, being aware of what it was going to be like. We went because we had heard so much about it, and also because we thought our experience of Spain would be incomplete without experiencing a bull fight-- it being so much a part of Spanish culture like Flamenco or football. After all, one does not visit a country just to see its monuments but also to get a feel of its culture, people and ethos. Despite the awareness, we eventually realized that the bull fight in our imagination had generous portions of romanticism and glamour (all that Hemingway stuff ... pictures and movies showing the matadors and bulls in heroic light) and when stripped bare of such ingredients of delusion, the reality turned out to be very disturbing. Incidentally, bullfight is banned in some parts of Spain and it is said that majority of Spaniards any way don’t approve of it.
The atmosphere was festive when we arrived at the bullring - with people thronging, flags fluttering and a band playing a rousing music.
The Bull Ring
The Bull Ring in Madrid
The proceeds began with
the participants entering the ring in a ceremonious procession that included horsemen
and mule driven carts. Slim and fit as swords, the men were smartly dressed in tightfitting,
brocaded costumes. The band played a music that strongly reminded us of Wild
West Hollywood movies. When the procession left the arena, only 4 or 5 Peones,
whose job, we came to learn, was to tease the bull and test their strength by
darting around the arena with their red capes held wide in their hands.
The Peones take their
turn to fool the bull with their red capes, making it turn around them in
increasingly shorter circles.
his outstretched
hands. He stands erect and taut on the tips of his toes, waiting for the bull
to notice him. It does, shortly – and rushes at him at once. Just when the bull
is almost on him, the banderillo deftly dodges the bull, curving his body over
it, and running past its flank. And at the same time- too quickly for us to
notice- he manages to plant- at one go- both the barbs he has been holding in
his hands on the bull’s back, just behind its head. The tips of the barbs are sort
of hooked and though they have pierced the bull’s body only by a few inches,
they do not fall off as the bull tries to shake them off. Blood starts oozing
out of the wounds and it flows down the bull’s flanks. We are disturbed by the
sight.
A second banderillo now
takes on the bull and plants another two barb on its back. With the four spikes
that have been stuck on its back dangling from its body and the wounds
bleeding, the bull is obviously in pain. And it has reason to be very angry.
The misery for the bull
now goes several notches up.
Suddenly the arena
looks empty except for the bull. Its body is undergoing involuntary convulsions
due to the raw wounds on its body. Its mental condition can only be guessed.
It is now one-to-one
match between the man and the beast. But it must be mentioned that the peones
are on standby to rescue the matador if things happen to go bad for him.
The final act is about
to happen. The matador goes to the peripheral wall of the ring. Apparently there
is an exchange of swords across the wall-- one which is more practical than
ceremonial is exchanged by the matador for the one with which he has entered
the ring. After returning to the bull and making it chase his red cape around
him in ever sharper and risky maneuovours a few more times, the matador decides
that the time has come for the coup-de-grace. This is when he faces the bull which
stands in front of him as if defeated. It is bleeding copiously from the wounds
where the four spikes gifted by the banderillos are still sticking tenaciously and
from the deep wounds inflicted by the picadors’ lances. The animal is
hyperventilating with exhaustion, shock and loss of blood. It is confused and mesmerized
by the tricky maneuovours of the matador. Time has come for the matador to
strike.
We are profoundly
affected by what we have been witnessing. But we are in for further shocking
surprises when the ground is prepared for another fight and another bull
appears in the arena— looking strong, powerful and ready to take on the world.
We have seen it all before and know better. We wish the bull too knew that its
brute strength is no match for the cunning of the men who are ganging up
against it.
The proceeds began with
the participants entering the ring in a ceremonious procession that included horsemen
and mule driven carts. Slim and fit as swords, the men were smartly dressed in tightfitting,
brocaded costumes. The band played a music that strongly reminded us of Wild
West Hollywood movies. When the procession left the arena, only 4 or 5 Peones,
whose job, we came to learn, was to tease the bull and test their strength by
darting around the arena with their red capes held wide in their hands.
Soon the bull is
sighted in the grand arena near one of the 4 gates which open into it. It is a
magnificent beast -strong, powerful and looking ready to take on the world-
though initially it does appear a bit confused and lost -like a village hick in
a big city.
We feelthat a small
ribbon knot on the bull’s back, just behind its head, is perhaps tied to a pin
stuck into its skin that is meant to irritate it. It looks around mighty
annoyed and sighting a Peone at a distance, charges at him at once. Peone runs,
being chased by the bull and he escapes from it smartly into a narrow shelter
with open top just as the bull closes in on him. There are other similar shelters
provided along the periphery of the arena for the Peones and other tormenters
of the bull to escape from it just when it is on the verge of taking them up in
its loving horns. Other Peones positioned in different parts of the arena mock
the bull by calling out to it raucously and waving the red capes in their hands.
Chasing them, the bull runs thundering around the ring, without being able to
get at them- thanks to the strategically placed shelter for its tormentors--but
it tires itself in the process.
The bull is now
sufficiently tired and a Peone takes the liberty of annoying and confusing the
bull some more by standing firm, facing it defiantly with the red cape spread
wide in his hands while the angry bull watches him from a distance. With its
head held low, snorting and scraping the earth with its hoofs and raising dust,
the bull prepares for the attack. It charges with all the momentum capable of a
body weighing a thousand pounds or more - its muscles rippling under the skin that
glistens in the evening light. But we are in for disappointment. We are shocked
to find that the bull is too innocent for this game –instead of targeting his
tormentor’s body, it goes for the red cape, and it is not even able to hit the cape
since the peone pulls it off the bull’s line of attack in the nick of time. The
bull overshoots its target, carried forward under its own momentum, and it
takes a while for it to turn around and gather strength for another attack. The
attack results in the same fiasco for the bull as before. This is repeated,
except that the bull overshoots less and less and the peone makes it go around
him with the deft handling of the cape.
We are disappointed.
The bull does not learn; it repeatedly makes the same mistake of going for the
red cape instead of its opponent’s body. It is a fatal flaw.
The Peones take their
turn to fool the bull with their red capes, making it turn around them in
increasingly shorter circles.
A second banderillo now
takes on the bull and plants another two barb on its back. With the four spikes
that have been stuck on its back dangling from its body and the wounds
bleeding, the bull is obviously in pain. And it has reason to be very angry.
The reason for the
emptying of the ring becomes clear –to provide centre stage for the matador as
he struts into our view with a cape in one hand and an ominous looking sword in
the other.
It is now one-to-one
match between the man and the beast. But it must be mentioned that the peones
are on standby to rescue the matador if things happen to go bad for him.
The matador, standing
at a distance, eyes the bull steadily. The bull in turn stands still and stares
back at him and the cape he is holding. It is a classic stand-off. The matador
calls out raucously and taunts the bull. After some hesitation, and apparently
unable to take the insults any more, the bull decides take on the matador and
charges at him.
Bull’s basic and fatal
flaw in its strategy is obvious when it rushes to attack the red cape which the
matador is holding up to it rather than the matador himself. We start to wonder
if this foolishness is something the bull is born with or it has been instilled
into it by training. Be that as it may, the matador takes full advantage of
this weakness of the bull and makes it go round and round by pulling away the
cape just as the bull hits it- every time making the bull overshoot its
target. The matador courts danger with
the bull’s horns almost grazing him as he holds the cape increasingly close to
him, attracting the bull ever closer to him. Every such move elicits loud
cheers of ‘Ole!’ from the crowd. We think (and almost anticipate—having fully
gone over to the side of the hapless bull) that if ever the matador gets caught
in the upward thrust of the bull’s horns, he would end up high in the air with two
holes in his tummy.
The final act is about
to happen. The matador goes to the peripheral wall of the ring. Apparently there
is an exchange of swords across the wall-- one which is more practical than
ceremonial is exchanged by the matador for the one with which he has entered
the ring. After returning to the bull and making it chase his red cape around
him in ever sharper and risky maneuovours a few more times, the matador decides
that the time has come for the coup-de-grace. This is when he faces the bull which
stands in front of him as if defeated. It is bleeding copiously from the wounds
where the four spikes gifted by the banderillos are still sticking tenaciously and
from the deep wounds inflicted by the picadors’ lances. The animal is
hyperventilating with exhaustion, shock and loss of blood. It is confused and mesmerized
by the tricky maneuovours of the matador. Time has come for the matador to
strike.
The matador holds his
long sword in his outstretched hand at level with bull’s head, as if pointing
out the most vulnerable spot at which he is going to strike. The bull lurches
forward- one last time. The matador smartly dodges and as the bull runs past
him, plunges the sword into its back, just behind its head, all the way down - only
the hilt is visible at the spot where it has been plunged. We later come to know
that the matadors learn the skill of instant killing from butchers. The spot
chosen is such that there is no resistance to the sword from any bone as it
plunges in. That the sword has gone through the bull’s heart becomes obvious by
the instantaneous effect it has on the bull. It stands immobilized -- still as
if frozen. Its belly heaves dangerously, and it starts to vomit blood. The
matador, standing in front of the bull, observes it closely, and gives a knock on
its head at a chosen spot. It is the last straw. The bull topples and falls on
its back– legs in the air.
There is a flurry of
activities with the footmen of the matador swarming around the dying bull. One removes
the spikes and another the sword-- from the bull’s back. The sword is handed to
the matador who, with his cape, wipes the blood off it. The weapons of torment are
being salvaged presumably for reuse. The blood on the sandy ground is quickly erased
by men wielding spades who spread unsullied sand over it.
Suddenly a cart drawn
by mules arrives on the scene, and before we realize what is happening, the
dying bull is tied to it and dragged away most unceremoniously --with a dramatic
U-turn thrown in for good measure. It leaves a bloody trail in its wake which
too is quickly erased by the spades. We strongly feel that being dragged on the
ground- while it is yet do its dying properly and in peace - is the unkindest
cut and a most undeserving insult to the victim of this unfair fight.
We are profoundly
affected by what we have been witnessing. But we are in for further shocking
surprises when the ground is prepared for another fight and another bull
appears in the arena— looking strong, powerful and ready to take on the world.
We have seen it all before and know better. We wish the bull too knew that its
brute strength is no match for the cunning of the men who are ganging up
against it.
We feel guilty of
watching this gory sport and seek some justification for our participation in
it as spectators. The nearest we come to is by considering it as ritual hunting
- celebration of our primitive ancestors getting the better of beasts far stronger
than their puny selves. We imagined how they, working as a coordinated team and
armed only with crude Stone Age weapons, could hunt animals much stronger and
larger like wild bulls (such eye-catching part of the Spanish art from cave
paintings to Picasso) or even mammoths. A bunch of them would probably first chase
the animal till it gets tired and then the more daring ones would go near it to
attack it with spears to weaken it by injuries and bleeding, and finally the bravest
of them would go very near it to deliver the final fatal blow. Of course –for
them it meant food on the table and fully justified. But now it could only be justified
as a celebration of our primitive ancestor’s hunting skill that has eventually brought
us the civilization and sensibilities by which to judge the very same celebration.
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